As the reputation of the Valley and Yountville grew, its bars were replaced with wine tasting rooms and the demand for a table at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry, one block from Pancha’s, a exploded. Pancha’s clientele began to change: Veterans and farm workers were still essential customers, as were waiters at nearby wineries and upscale restaurants.
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Some evenings René, the bartender, saw “a big group, and they would all be lawyers,” he said, using a curse. Then there could also be a bunch …
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